圭亚那圭亚那,,,,SurinameandFrench Guianahide so well under their blanket of South American jungle that even geography nerds have a hard time pinpointing them on a map. Those intrepid enough to go are rewarded with virgin forests that are home to some of the continent's largest and most rare creatures, raw, unvarnished culture and a palpably bizarre mish-mash of history. Information is scarce, infrastructure scarcer, and chances are you'll meet no more than half a dozen other travellers when you visit. This is a mud-in-your-shoes, disconnect-from-the-modern-world destination that requires wads of cash instead of a bank card (ATMs are rare), a sturdy rear end (dirt roads plus worn shocks equal mega bumps) and an old-fashioned sense of adventure.

What you don't need is Spanish or Portuguese. Because of their colonial histories (or present in the case of French Guiana which is a department of France), Guyana speaks English, Suriname Dutch and French Guiana - predictably - French. The whole region is an ethnic grab bag of Amerindians, European colonists, the ancestors of escaped African slaves and descendents of Asian indentured laborers. The north coast geography means that the culture is more Caribbean than South American.


Features - Crossing-Maroni-River
越过马罗尼河。照片由Celeste Brash。

It's possible to visit all three countries overland or by small aircraft (try Suriname Airways atwww.slm.firm.sr) and each nation offers unique experiences. If you've only got time for one or you're looking to prioritise, here's how to choose:

圭亚那

在这三个圭亚那中,圭亚那的基础设施最少,并且在安全方面享有最差的声誉,但这是旅行的绝佳地方。大多数人预定了至少一个留在美洲印第安村庄的室内旅行以及观看野生动物园的室内旅行,您可以希望发现巨大的猎物,美洲虎,哈比鹰,黑凯门,黑凯门,巨型河流,巨型河流,阿拉帕伊玛最大的淡水鱼)等等。

或者,小巴和常规航班(跨性别圭亚那航空公司是最可靠的)在巴西边境的乔治敦和莱瑟姆之间运行,尽管独立前往丛林小屋需要耐心,提前计划,如果您最终不得不租用4WD,则可能需要大量的钱。尝试在供应运行中与小屋一起搭便车,或聘请当地人带您骑摩托车以削减成本。(阅读更多圭亚那的陆上冒险。)

所有的航班和公共汽车都经过狡猾而迷人的殖民地乔治敦。While you're there you shouldn't miss taking a day trip in a small plane toKaieteur Falls,这是世界上最大的单滴落下,这可能是唯一一个宏伟的跌倒,您将在没有其他游客的情况下参观。

看着Kaieteur Falls的边缘。由非常勇敢的Celeste Brash摄影。Read more about this vertigo-inducing photo

Suriname

Paramaribo是圭亚那殖民地首都最活跃的人。在镇上要做的事情是租一辆自行车,沿着巨大的公路河进行DIY巡回演出,参观旧的种植园和自然区域,散发着热带鸟类。日落时,在河上巡游,寻找通常会在船上玩耍的粉红色河海豚。这里的夜生活是在一周中的任何一天,许多当地人和荷兰游客在舞池里沉重而沉重。

Then get out of town because like Guyana, most of Suriname's magic is in it's wild interior. The cultural draw to Suriname's jungles are the Maroons, the descendants of escaped slaves who re-created an African way of life deep in the forest and were essentially forgotten for centuries. Nowadays many villages have opened lodges that range from luxurious with swimming pools to basic shelters to hang a hammock. Most people book all-inclusive tours although it's possible to get to nearly all the lodges by public bus and boat, which is an ideal solution for brave, broke and intrepid backpackers.


功能 - 从武装中查看
View from the top of Voltzberg,Raleighvallen自然保护区。照片由Celeste Brash。

French Guiana

Although French Guiana is doted with the highest standard of living in the region, it's the most difficult of the three Guianas to travel through. It's expensive thanks to the Euro, but even more of a hindrance is that local transport is limited and the interior can only be reached on infrequent tours that need to be organized well in advance and English is rarely spoken.

Independent travelers can still have a good time however. Enjoy the French-Caribbean chic of the capital Cayenne by hanging out with a cold beer orcaféau lait在殖民风格的人行道吧。在城里前往乌尔斯·杜尔·萨尔特(Yles du Salut)的离岸岛屿以其令人毛骨悚然而有趣的监狱营地而闻名,例如著名的伊尔·杜布尔(ele duble)(英语的魔鬼岛)。您可以在一日游或在古怪的地方过夜Auberge des Iles du Salut一些房间位于旧警卫的宿舍中。


特征 - 恶魔岛
The view across to Île du Diable (Devil's Island). Photo by Celeste Brash.

在苏里南边境的St Laurent du Maroni中发现了更多的监狱营地,您可以预订游览以查看这些或沿着Maroni河进行河流旅行,参观了该镇的出色旅游办事处

Celeste Brashspent five years on a remote Pacific atoll, 10 more on Tahiti, and has travelled extensively around the world for Lonely Planet. Read about one of Celeste’s more memorable journeys in“与海盗握手 - 参观皮特凯恩岛”

在包装中腾出空间,以获取南美洲on a Shoestring,《南美独立和预算旅行的权威指南》。

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